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Installation and Operation Instructions
Congratulations on your purchase of a Crystalyte hub motor!
Please read the following instructions carefully & entirely
before attempting the installation. NOTE: Front hub motors can only be installed on solid (non-suspension)
steel forks.
STEP 1.
Checklist of required parts, tools & skills:
Parts (included in kit):
Hub motor in rim - check rim size
Controller
Throttle
Charger
Tie wraps
Tools:
Tire irons
19 mm box end wrench or socket
10 mm wrench or socket
Metric allen wrench set
Hammer & wooden block
Voltmeter / multitester (recommended) Skills:
Basic mechanical aptitude & ability to use hand tools.
Understanding of electric circuits & ability to use voltmeter.
NOTE: If you do not have these tools or skills, a local bike shop
can install your hub motor kit for a fee. If you have disk brakes on your bike we recommend installation by a bike shop.
We can give instructions & support to your local bike shop.
STEP 2. Wheel installation
A. Remove existing wheel from bike (you may need to disconnect brakes).
B. Remove existing tire & tube & install on new hub motor rim.
C. IMPORTANT! Inspect fork & dropouts for cracks & spreading.
D. Install hub motor on bike. IMPORTANT!
Power wire needs to exit from the BOTTOM of the axle, to avoid moisture running into the motor along the wire.
Generally, the power wire should be on the left of the hub motor when you are sitting on the bike.
You may have to gently spread the forks slightly to accommodate the hub motor (3 7/8" is required).
If necessary, use an automotive scissor-style jack turned sideways to spread forks.
If necessary, add 12 mm washers between axle & fork (one or both sides)
to create sufficient gap between hub & fork.
E. IMPORTANT! Before tightening axle nuts, ensure axle is seated in fork dropouts as deeply as possible.
Use hammer & wooden block to tap on axle if necessary.
F. IMPORTANT! Tighten axle nuts very tightly! Improper seating of axle in dropouts or improper tightening
can lead to hub motor (your wheel!) twisting loose, resulting in damage to motor & wiring, and/or serious injury.
G. Reconnect brakes and adjust them so wheel spins freely.
STEP 3. Mount throttle & controller
A. Remove right side handlebar grip.
B. Slide throttle over handlebar & tighten set screw when in desired position.
Depending on the style of shifter & brake controls, you may mount throttle to left or right of these controls,
& with thumb lever facing left or right.
C. Mount controller on frame, using plastic tie wraps. Usually controller is placed under front or back of seat,
or on the front of the rack. IMPORTANT: mount controller with black case side up, for protection from water.
STEP 4. Connect wiring
STEP 5. Secure wiring with tie wraps
STEP 6. Install battery pack on bike rack.
(If your bike doesn't have a bike rack, be sure to upgrade your kit with one or buy one locally.)
Congratulations! You are ready for your test run!
Make sure you wear a helmet...
For the most part,
each wire is designed to connect to one plug only.
All components connect to the controller - hub motor, throttle, & battery pack.
Pay particular attention to the main power wire to hub motor, so it is kept free of moving parts such as wheel
& pedals. Secure cables up from hub motor wheel along outside of forks, then along center frame
rail to the point where controller is mounted on bike rack.
Secure with attached velcro straps. You may prefer using other heavy duty straps, available in camping stores,
if your road surface or riding style is rough.
STEP 7.
Damage caused by moisture entering components and wiring WILL NOT be covered by warranty!
It is the customer's responsibility to cover and seal all connections and all wiring entering into motor,
and all components as they may be exposed to moisture in riding or in storage or during transport, for example on an RV.
Plumber's putty is great for sealing the axles at the bearings, and also for the point where the wires enter the axle.
Wiring connections should be well taped with electrical tape.
If riding in rain, batteries & controller should be covered with plastic and taped up.
TROUBLESHOOTING: *Start with the simple stuff first!*
*Are the batteries charged?
*Is the power on?
*Are all the wires well connected?
*Is the fuse inside the battery pack OK?
If still a no go...
1. Disconnect battery pack from controller, turn power on, and use voltmeter to check power output.
You should have at least 36 volts.
If no power, or less than 36V, open battery pack & check for loose connections.
2. If battery pack power output is okay, check all connections to the controller.
3. Still a no go? Write down all symptoms and call for help - 780-909-4096.
1. For SLA packs - charge immediately after EACH use. This maximizes battery life.
For NiCad and NiMh packs, charge at your convenience. To extend the lifespan of NiCad packs, vary the discharge amount. For example,
vary your commute route home, or run some errands before charging.
2. Connect charger to battery before plugging charger into wall outlet.
3. Red/orange light on charger indicates charging in progress.
Green light indicates charging is complete.
This is a smart charger that will turn itself off.
4. Periodically inspect batteries in bag & check wiring connections for tightness.
Ebiking Do’s and Don’ts
Do:
1. Inspect your bike regularly.
2. Check spoke tension monthly, as hub motors put more strain on spokes than ordinary wheels do. Tighten any spokes that are looser than the others. One easy way to check tension is to pluck the spokes like a guitar string. Loose ones will have a lower pitch or even make a loose buzzing noise.
3. Accelerate smoothly & slowly. For ebikes with instant start controllers,
pedal when starting off, since starting without pedaling puts a lot of strain on the controller and also uses lots
of battery power.
Don't: 1.
Use power on fast, high-lean curves. 2. Go fast on rough surfaces. 3. Go fast downhill, ie
>50 km/h as this could put too much current into your controller and fry it. 4. Roll backwards with power on.
Thanks for your business and happy ebiking!